January 12, Day 4: Boruca Community [Rose]

 Moren Moren!

Today we visited Boruca, which is an indigenous community famous for its masks and festivals. As all of y'all probably know, there is nothing I love more than folklore and legends, so obviously, I was beyond excited to visit! Where to even begin... today was truly magical, and I will remember it forever! Firstly, the ride to Boruca was beautiful. We followed the Térraba River, and the whole time I was thinking about the Goldfinch Princess Turehua, who lives there according to legend. Boruca itself is a beautiful town. Surrounded by mountainous jungle, the red dust contrasting the blue sky. Chickens, dogs, and butterflies were everywhere, as were trees laden with bananas and oranges. We stayed most of the day at an outdoor kitchen. We listened to Ms. Paola and Ms. Lourdes speak about Boruca culture.

The Boruca have lived between Quepos and Punta Burica for at least 4000 years. The predecessors to the Boruca were the Diquis, who are famous for their many giant stone spheres that dot the landscape. Colonization saw the Boruca people forced from their ancestral lands and into the mountains. Legends say that they followed a herd of black pigs to safety. It's important to remember that the land I sit upon right now has been Boruca land since time immemorial, and I believe the land remembers its past. This is still Boruca land, no matter how you look at it. The Boruca are considered guardians of Mother Earth, who feeds and shelters us. Water is her blood, and plants are her clothing. In return for her gifts, we must protect her from pollution.

We all ate for breakfast empanadas and fruit, and for lunch we ate veggie, pork, and chicken kabobs, picadillo de chayote, and banana ceviche. We went to the waterfall of Cuasran. I felt incredibly lucky to be there, as it is the most sacred site in all of Boruca land. Purely from a physical standpoint, it was absolutely gorgeous. I think it was probably the most beautiful place I've ever visited; words can't do it justice. What really made it magical though was the spiritual energy of the waterfall. Cuasran is the home of the king of the same name, who rose to godhood after sacrificing his life to save the Boruca people from the invading conquistadores. He is immortalized with the Juego de los Diablitos, a yearly festival that is the origin of the famous Devil Masks. Cuasran watches over the town and protects it, and we must respect his home in turn. Legend states that all who swim in the falls will one day return to Boruca, so obviously we went for a dip! Maestra and I layed on our backs and just stared at the sky and the toucans. It's only been a few hours, and that memory is already close to my heart. 

But the best part of being at Cuasran was talking to Mr. Luis, who is a mask maker. We talked for a long time about legends and stories and all sorts of things.  Ms. Lourdes and I talked for a long time about specific legends, indigeneity, and the power of grandmothers. We really connected; it really touched my heart. We both cried happy tears. It felt like we had met before, and I think we both reminded each other of someone dear.  The wisdom of both Ms. Lourdes and Mr. Luis was amazing, and I think it's safe to assume they appreciated my enthusiasm! I sure talked their ears off! 

Lastly, we painted devil masks back in the village. I bought one as well. This day was amazing, and dare I say it, one of my best days yet. I know I'll return to Boruca one day - hopefully soon. Until then, I'll visit it often in my dreams.